lyonet_de_covenham
Arms for Leonet de Covenham.

Dame Leonet de Covenham was elevated to the Order of the Laurel at Yule Ball in December 2017.  When I heard about this in the days following the event, I wanted to make a small gift for her.

The finished band was about 1.35m long, and 22-23mm wide (38 cards).  The colours and design were based on her arms. I used DMC Cebelia 40 crochet cotton, because it is guaranteed colorfast and stands up to a fair bit of wear and tear. If she chooses to turn the band into a set of garters, a bag strap  or a belt, regular wear/abrasion has to be considered.

Design & testing

When I checked the Drachenwald Order of Precedence, I realised that the field divisions and bendlets depicted in Leonet’s arms were perfect for tablet weaving in 3-1 twill. I did a mockup in GTT then made a test piece.

Test piece. Upper left: edges without border cards. Upper right: a single border card added to both sides. (The upper two images also show some warp tension issues with some of the cards.) Lower left: one edge of the band without a border card. Lower right: same edge with one border card added.

Originally, I didn’t add border cards because I was hoping to make the color changes in the stripes go right to the edge. I wasn’t too happy with the resulting edges, thinking they looked messy. I then added in a single border card on each side, which matched the dominant color of the adjacent stripe. I thought this made the edges look a lot neater and did not detract from the overall look, especially when viewing the band from a distance.

Any variation in warp or weft tension was immediately obvious, partly because of the simplicity of the pattern. This encouraged me to pay more attention to what I was doing. Was I successful in keeping the twill looking neat and even in the final piece? Maybe. I’m overly critical, so you decide 🙂

Pattern

TW4-s-twillWhile I did draw up a complete chart for Leonet’s band, it wasn’t necessary. The following notes work for any number of cards divisible by 4.

A basic 3-1 s-twill repeat is 4 cards wide and 4 rows long.
MC = main color. CC = contrast color.

Setup

  1. To produce lengthways stripes of equal width, choose a number of pattern cards that is divisible by 4. (For Leonet’s band, I used 36 pattern cards)
  2. Thread each card with two light and two darks threads next to each other and arrange them in sequence for 3-1 twill weaving, with the dark color on the upper surface.
  3. Divide the pattern cards into 4 equal packs. (For Leonet’s band, this meant 4 packs of 9 cards each)
  4. Working from left to right: rotate 2nd and 4th pack two quarter turns forward to reverse the colors. This sets up the lengthways stripes.
    As you look across the band, 1st & 3rd stripes: MC=dark and CC=light; 2nd & 4th stripes: MC=light and CC=Dark. Basically MC is always uppermost at the start, but the color varies depending which stripe you look at.
  5. Slide packs back together.
  6. Add border cards if desired. ( I added 1 card to each side that matched MC of the adjacent stripe)

Weaving

Twill-stripesthm
Chart for 38 cards. (36 pattern cards + 2 border cards)
  1. Work 12 rows (3 repeats) of twill to start the band off.
  2. Work one row of a 4th repeat.
  3. On the next row, work to the last card  at the righthand edge of the band.  Turn this last card backwards (instead of the usual forwards), so you bring CC uppermost.
  4. Continue in this fashion, maintaining twill,  until you have six cards of CC uppermost next to eachother.
  5. On the following row, bring the MC back to the top at the righthand edge.
  6. Continue bringing MC to the top, maintaining twill, until you have 10 cards of MC next to eachother.
  7. Repeat steps 3-5 to create another narrow stripe.
  8. Continue bringing MC  to top, maintaining twill, and travel the set of stripes across the band and run them off the left edge.
  9. Start at the beginning again, working 12 rows twill before starting another set of stripes.
  10. Continue in this fashion until your band is as long as you want it to be.

Resources

Doubleface 3-1 broken twill (Sarah Goslee) – explanation of card setup, threading and difference between s-twill and z-twill.

Drachenwald Order of Precedence – awards and honors given by the crowned heads of Drachenwald, and awards/honors held by those resident in Drachenwald.

Guntram’s tablet weaving thingy (GTT) – tablet weaving design software developed by Master Guntram. (I used the twill 3-1 part for the first time while planning this band.)

Video of Dame Leonet’s elevation ceremony

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